Prague’s Christmas markets have a fairytale feel and have retained their authenticity. That’s why we decided to discover them on the 1er weekend of December for their official opening.
Every year, we love discovering new Christmas markets to immerse ourselves in this magical atmosphere and fall back into childhood. I invite you to read our other articles to discover these beautiful European Christmas markets:
This time we wanted to discover the Czech Republic for the festive season. December means Noël, says Christmas market! Going to Prague in December during the Christmas market, I was dreaming of it and hoping for snow and cold (yes I love it)! I think Santa heard me and answered part of my prayer. As a big fan of this time of year, I was spoilt for choice when I woke up on Saturday morning to see the city’s rooftops covered in snow. The Christmas atmosphere is even more magical when the city is covered in a thick blanket of snow!
The Christmas markets in Prague are famous all over Europe, and shine brightly. They are very popular with tourists for their festive atmosphere. They’re alive and soulful, unlike those I’ve seen in Paris or other French cities.
The traditional wooden chalets offer everything from culinary specialties and Christmas decorations to wooden toys, traditional Czech handicrafts, embroidery, ceramics, woollen clothing and local produce.
Prague has 6 Christmas markets all over the city, but we chose to do just three over the weekend. (the first three mentioned). As far as time was concerned, we didn’t want to run all over the place, and we also wanted to stroll leisurely through the aisles and stop for coffee, which we love!
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THE OLD TOWN MARKET « Old Town Square »
You can’t escape it! The market for Place of the Vieille Ville remains Prague’s biggest Christmas market and is located on the city’s best-known square, surrounded by beautiful Austro-Hungarian buildings and the beautiful Astronomical Clock (you’ve probably already seen photos circulating on the Internet). It was the first place we visited when we arrived, and the one that charmed me the most. With all those good smells, it’s easy to be tempted to try everything (especially Marion), so we strolled around for a while, eating a few local specialities and drinking a glass of mulled wine! The wooden chalets all offer the same thing: decorative items, specialities and drinks, all in an authentic, traditional atmosphere! At this time of year, there are a lot of people in the aisles, so it’s not always easy to find your way around! Tourists and locals gather here to feast together, in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere!
Every day, you can attend small concerts on the main stage, featuring choirs and carols. As night falls, the market becomes even more magical, with the huge Christmas tree sparkling with thousands of lights! The effect is just WOW! Opposite, an illuminated platform offers a great view of the city. It’s not easy to get up there because of the number of people who have had the same idea as you and are crowding around for a selfie, but it will give you another point of view!
For an overview of Prague’s Christmas market, I highly recommend climbing to the top of the City Hall Tower. The 360-degree panoramic view of the city and the market is just superb! Now you know that it’s a war to position yourself in front of THE famous view! You’ll be elbowing Chinese and European tourists to get your photo. Here’s our tip: in December, night falls at 4.30pm, so if you want to enjoy the view during the day and evening, you need to be in the tower by 3.45pm. Some people queue up to buy their tickets, so consider doing what we did and getting them in advance, by buying them online. This will help you avoid the queue and get on faster! That’s what we did, and it saved our lives! Don’t worry about the stairs, there’s an elevator to the top!
Tripod possible (not charged) but the space between the wall and the aisle is narrow so it’s a pain to use! You can try using it as a monopod
If you too would like to climb to the top of City Hall, which gives you priority access to the tower without having to wait in line, please click below.
THE MALE NAMESTI MARKET
Right next to the market in the town square, there is the small market located in the pretty little triangular square. Male Namesti. It’s really less crowded and we found it the ideal place to have lunch, as there were standing tables available. There’s also a barn with a few farm animals, great for kids.
PLACE VENCESLAS « Wenceslas Square»
It is the second largest Prague Christmas market. It’s located on one of the city’s main thoroughfares, where you’ll find major retailers on either side. This is where we saw a few blacksmiths selling their creations, as well as gift ideas made from glass and iron. It’s not our favorite spot, but we found the second part of the market (by the statue) much nicer. There were a number of culinary specialities, a very good Christmas punch , but also hot pear and apple juices or the The Welder in Czech(translate mulled wine). We warmed up here for a few moments around a fire, contemplating the pretty outlook over the market.
The other markets below are smaller and located all over the city. While they have their charm and help to decorate the city in the Christmas atmosphere, they are less essential. If you wander around Prague, you’re bound to come across them.
I had read that the small Place of Peace (Peace Square) in the heart of Vinohrady was the first to open its doors end of November and that it was more frequented by locals. Perhaps it’s best for authentic immersion. The market for Place Tyvolo (Tyl Square) is the smallest of Prague’s Christmas markets. So it can be more intimate and less crowded! Finally, the Place of the Republic (Republic Square) is renowned for its local gastronomy, but you’ll find all kinds of specialities just about everywhere, especially in the stalls of the old town!
BUT WHAT DO PEOPLE EAT AND DRINK AT CHRISTMAS MARKETS?
In fact, there’s plenty to choose from! We had decided to devote a full day to discovering Czech culinary specialties. First tip: do a first lap before jumping onto the first course. This will allow you to take your time and make your choice. That’s how we spotted the delicious Prague ham roasting on a spit (it smelled delicious), but also the barbecued sausages (grilled or in a baguette sandwich), the gnocchi potatoes with cabbage and bacon, and the big potato pancake. First surprise, you pay by weight (price per 100 grams) and I didn’t realize it until it was time to pay the bill! Vendors tend to serve you large portions full to the brim or large chunks of meat with a smile, and I can see why! Not that they’re generous, but rather clever! Result: 1 large omelette + 1 piece of ham + 1 glass of mulled wine = €25 for the two of us! We were a bit fooled the first time, but not the second! There are also potato chips on sticks (2€), hot chestnuts and Hungarian langoš, the typical Christmas market dish. A type of bread (made from wheat or potatoes) fried in oil, topped with cheese, cream and garlic. To be honest, we asked what it was but didn’t taste it because we weren’t hungry anymore!
For dessert, you’re bound to fall for the unmissable Trdelnik. But if you know what it is, it’s that cylinder-shaped puff pastry, baked on the stove on a long roll and coated in sugar. Some of these local pastries are sprinkled with crushed almonds, while others are filled with whipped cream, ice cream or Nutella. You’ll see them everywhere, and not just at Christmas, as I’d already tasted them on our first visit to Prague. It’s pretty good and addictive! On the stands, there’s also braided brioche (vánočka), sweet and savory struddle, decorated gingerbread (a bit hard, I think I prefer the softer Alsatian one!), local honeys or the Medovina, a honey liqueur.
On the beverage side, there’s the traditional hot wine with a sweet cinnamon aroma, available in several flavors: pear juice, apple juice, with a blend of spices, but also hot chocolate or ginger tea. Glass costs an average of €3. And don’t forget to sample the famous Czech beers: Pilsner Urquell, Budvar and Staropramen, as well as the sweet spirit mead.
WHAT SOUVENIRS TO BRING BACK FROM PRAGUE?
We didn’t bring back much from the Christmas market. However, here are a few ideas for less gadgety Christmas gifts and typical Czech souvenirs that you’ll find at Christmas markets or in Old Town stores.
→ Christmas decorations and wooden toys
You can’t escape Christmas decorations: wooden, hand-painted baubles, straw or paper angels, salt dough hangers… there’s something for everyone. It’s amazing how wooden toys are coming back into fashion, and I’m a fan! (too bad, I don’t have kids yet). You’ll find them on the many stands, and they look good, but their prices are still high. We fell for the wooden hanging lamps and candleholders in the boutique
→ Puppets
It’s a typical Prague souvenir. You’ll find witches and characters from Czech theater. They are made of different materials: wood, terracotta or plaster.
→ Bohemian crystal
It’s one of the purest and most refined in the world, and one of the Czech Republic’s most prized souvenirs. You’ll find it in sculptures and decorations, but I’m not particularly fond of this kitschy style. Take your time browsing to avoid scams and find that rare item.
→ Czech garnet
I’ve seen them all over the capital’s jewelry stores. Bohemia is the only historical region in Europe with deposits of this precious stone. Garnet is a red stone that is worked into every possible form: rings, sculptures, stemware…
→ Wool clothing : Mittens, gloves, booties, fleeces, chapkas – you’ll find a wide range of garments and accessories made from sheep’s wool. Warm and qualitative.
WHERE TO STAY IN PRAGUE?
We stayed two nights at the Mama Shelter (Veletržní 1502/20, 170 00 Prague 7) only a 15-minute streetcar ride from the city center and perfect value for money (tramway Trade Fair Palace). The hotel is modern with a very good and copious breakfast. With streetcars running until 11pm-midnight, we didn’t mind being a little out of the way. However, if you find a hotel or Airbnb in the city center, it can be really nice, if only for the evening strolls and to get to the back alleys earlier.
I’ve found you a few charming addresses below that seem really nice in the Old Town of Prague
- The Cosmopolitain Hotel
- The Dominican Hotel
- TheArt Deco Imperial Hotel
- The Hotel Nyx
- The Design Hotel Neruda
- The hotel Aria near the castle
- The hotel Emblem
- The hotel Clarion Old Town
UNUSUAL ACTIVITIES IN PRAGUE
Why not try a beer bath? But what is it? It’s a rather original and unusual spa that uses all-natural beer raw materials and relies on old Czech healing practices. The beer baths are shaped like wine barrels and handcrafted from royal oak. A young woman prepares the mixture in front of you, pouring into the hot bath the famous natural extracts that form the basis of Czech beer (Krušovice): hop varieties, yeast and malt.
Thanks to this unique combination of natural ingredients and the effect of royal oak, the baths stimulate the metabolism, cleanse the body of harmful substances, regenerate the skin, release pores, internal and external tensions, fatigue and stress, and thus provide perfect mental and physical rest. And for extra relaxation, during the beer bath you can draw unlimited quantities of real Czech beer. So believe it or not, we were perfectly relaxed!
In the spa package we tested, you’ve got it all:
- The beer bath
- Unlimited consumption of Krušovice light or dark beer
- The original hop sauna
- Cooling with traditional oak watering buckets
- Resting on a real straw bed by the fireplace
- A few slices of homemade beer bread
- Price for 2 people “Spa Beerland “: 148€ (spacious room with 3 baths and sauna). Option for 2 people at 87€ (no sauna)
For smaller budgets, I’ve found the same experience at a lower price, just below.
WHAT TO WEAR IF IT’S COLD IN PRAGUE
We had snow in December, and you should know that it’s cold in Prague. Temperatures can drop to 20 degrees. Since you’ll be tramping around in the cold, it’s best to bring along :
- Mittens, hat or chapka, scarf and warm clothing.
- Good shoes, because all the Christmas Markets are fairly close together. I’d worn sneakers and that wasn’t the best choice in the snow. Choose warm, comfortable boots.
PRACTICAL INFO | Christmas markets
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- If you can do the Christmas market during the week and not at the weekend, it’s always better. You’ll avoid the crowds and tourist groups. If you don’t have the choice of leaving on the weekend, try to leave on Thursday evening or Friday morning to have the afternoon free. Or come home on Monday evening?
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- Bands are spreading the word and arriving en masse on Saturday!Don’t be surprised if the streets are packed! Try to get to the hot spots as early as possible and in the opposite direction to the groups, who tend to do the must-sees first.
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- Get up early! We’ve noticed that before 9:30 am, the alleys and tourist spots aren’t too crowded. But after 10 a.m., it’s all over!
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- In Prague, we eat early! Around 6pm, locals and tourists start heading for the restaurants. The main Christmas market closes at 22h so we could see that travelers start to leave at dinner or aperitif time. You’ll have more time to enjoy the cottages, take photos and stroll through the markets. You’ll pass fewer people!
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- On the Peace Square, Tylovo Square et Republic Square, The markets are open from 10:00 to 19:00 and from 10:00 to 22:00 for the Václavské náměstí and Staroměstské náměstí markets. Before booking your weekend, make sure you know the dates (opening end of November and closing around January 6th)
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- A weekend at the Christmas markets is both short and perfectly possible without rushing around too much, as everything can be done on foot.
- In December, night falls at 4:30 pm, so I recommend strolling through the Christmas markets at dusk. It’s undoubtedly at night that the show is the prettiest and the Christmas spirit the most present.
If you’re fed up with eating fatty and unbalanced foods, I suggest you try my other gourmet addresses. We didn’t have time to do them all, but they were on my list because I’d either spotted them or they’d been recommended to me!
For a good brunch:
- Mezy Srnki, Sázavská, 19
- Eska, Pernerova, 49
- Cafe Neustadt, Charles Square, 1/23
- Den Noc Cafe
- Pauseteria cafe, 11/4 At the Town Hall
- The Farm, Coronation, 17
To drink a good beer:
- Zizkov district (east): Bar district
- U kocoura, Nerudova, 205/2: Prague pub
- At the Golden Tiger: We’ve been to this great Prague pub twice! But it’s impossible to get a seat or a table because it’s so cool and famous! Too bad!
- In the passage from Karlova 25 , there’s a bar at the far right serving traditional beer.
For eating local:
- At the Provatnice, Provaznicka, 385/3: Hungarian restaurant – hearty cuisine
- Sample room, National, 11: Brasserie Typical Czech
- Rodolfina, Křižovnická, 10: Restaurant with rustic decor and traditional cuisine
- Lokal Dlouha: local restaurant version
- The Mill, Leather, 14: Very good and inexpensive traditional Czech restaurant (€25 for two for 2 courses and 2 beers) – Rustic decor! Be careful, there’s a lot of waiting as this is a popular place.
Forvegetarians: Weeds ; Crimean, 126/2: goulash vegetarian
- Etnosvet, Legerova, 40: Resto refined- burger lentille – risotto
- Estrella, Opatovicka, 17
- Clear Head, Borsov, 280/2
For a world cuisine (Prague has a large Viet community).
- Madame Lyn, Šafaříkova, 18: Restaurant Viêt
- Cafe Colore, Nove mesto district: spinach risotto, shrimp gnocchi
- Yôri, Masaryk Embankment, 12: Restaurant Viêt
- Asian Temple, Bílkova, 13: Asian restaurant
- Banh-mi-ba, Rybná, 26: Restaurant Viêt
For a good coffee and good pastries:
- Pauseteria cafe, 11/4 U Radnice (great brunch and café address tested and approved above, their chai coffee is a delight as is their avocado tartine and eggs Benedict)
- Erhart’s Sugar Factory, Vinohradská Street, 2022/125: Pâtisseries Tchèques
- Muj Salev Kavi, Křižíkova, 105: Coffee and very good pastries
- Simply Good Gluten Free, Sokolovská, 146/70: Gluten-free pastries
- Café Louvre, National, 22: Traditional café with belle period ambience
- Cafe Savoy, Vítězná, 124/5: Prague café, art nouveau building, pastry shop
- The Bohemian café (Sázavská 2031/32, 120 00 Prague 2): super belle déco!
- Cafefin (Us. J. z Poděbrady 1407/4, 120 00)
- U Prince, Staroměstské náměstí, 29: café with terrace overlooking Old Town Square (very expensive café, unpleasant staff, you really come for the view. No photos with tripod or use of tripod for €100).
- Yes Cafe, Letná Square, 5: Nice coffee
- Cafe Neustadt, Charles Square, 1/23
- Café Riviera, period atmosphere, coffee at the counter, very nice
One of my biggest regrets is not having been to the Vnitroblock, a kind of huge New York-style Hangar, built with industrial materials and decorated with a beautiful mix of wood and metal. It’s a cool, hip, cosmopolitan place with stores and places to eat.
Food
- 1€ = approx 26K
- Restaurant meals: approx. 200 K/p to 350 K/p
- Glass of mulled wine: 60k
- Trdlnic: 60k
- Prague ham dish: 1 portion approx. 350k as it is sold by weight
- Potato-cabbage-bacon dish: 300k per plate
- Sausage: 80k
- Café on terrace U prince: 90k
- Beer: in the old town square: 140k/p and in a bar elsewhere: 50k/p
Activities
- Input Charles Bridge Tower: 100k/p ( go as early as possible, before 10 a.m., to enjoy the panorama)
- Input Astronomical tower (open until 10pm): 250K/p and 210K/p with fastpass (see above or click here). here )
- The Town Hall Pass gives you access to the Town Hall Tower in the New Town, as well as to the Old Town Hall and the Town Hall Tower in the Old Town. The Town Hall Pass is valid for 3 days and includes direct access, so you don’t have to queue. Full price: 350 CZK/p, reduced price: 250 CZK/p
- The beer spae 148€ for 2 people or about 40€/person by clicking here
Tramway
- 1 day pass: 100k/p 1 1/2h trip: 24k/p 1 6h trip: 48k/p
Before you leave, I also invite you to read our other articles to discover some of Europe’s most beautiful Christmas markets.
If you have any new addresses to share, don’t hesitate to leave me a comment and I’ll update the article.
