This is one of the highlights of your trip to Cuba. Nestled in the middle of the Viñales Natural Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site in an atypical, verdant landscape surrounded by mogotes, Viñales is a town that’s sure to win you over.
A must-see stop on our trip, Viñales was a town we were looking forward to. We were looking forward to seeing the great valleys, the ox-drawn carts, the cigars, the horse-drawn carriages and everything else that reminded us of the tobacco route. You won’t be disappointed by the trip, as they’re everywhere. There’s nothing folkloric about it – on the contrary, it’s still part of their daily lives: we’ve arrived in Cuban cowboy territory. Viñales’ first impression, however, is that of a town with a well-developed tourist industry: well-appointed restaurants and bars, numerous casas particulares, souvenir stores… I’d be lying to you if I told you that you’d be arriving in an ultra-authentic place. But that doesn’t spoil the fun, because despite the crowds, the magic still works, provided you choose the right places and the right formulas.
Located two hours’ drive from Havana and an hour from the coast, the town is also the starting point for a day or two on the Cayo Jutias or Cayo Levisa. Here are the main points of interest and our feedback.
| VISIT VIÑALES NATIONAL PARK
- Take a horseback ride through the Mogotes
A visit to Viñales National Park is a must. The tours are done on horseback, which is a very appropriate way to visit and, in my opinion, very authentic given the importance of this animal in the daily lives of Cubans. A charming stroll in a verdant setting. There are 2 possible options:
- Starting from Viñales
- From the Los Jazmines lookout
The first route is the most popular with travellers, and therefore the most popular with tourists. It will take you for about 15 to 20 CUC/P on the other side of the valley, on a flatter part of the national park with a swim stop in a crowded artificial lake, while the second route takes you to higher vantage points with superb views over the valley and the Mogotes, these green limestone hills characterized by their rounded structure. On the other hand, having to get to the start in Los Jazmines by cab or car means there are far fewer people around and you’re more out of the way, which is far from unpleasant. In both cases, the route offers much of the same: lush green landscapes, wooden tobacco barns, meeting the locals. Only three plantations are authorized to receive tourists.
Visits are made to a tobacco kiln, and don’t be surprised if you don’t see any in August, as the drying process only lasts 3/4 months, from February to May. As for the tobacco fields, they are lined with September to February. We were there in August, so there was no tobacco in the fields or in the dryer, but that didn’t spoil the experience. You’ll see how cigars are made, with what type of leaves, how they’re rolled and you’ll be able to taste them. If you’d like to take some home as souvenirs, you can buy them on site. We paid 50 to 60 CUC for 20 cigars, but beware of prices: depending on your casa, you may also find them at around 30 CUC for 20 cigars. On the other hand, the quality of these was not up to scratch and we only realized this on our return… it’s one of the little scams we come across in this country.
The walk will then take you to a small farm where you’ll meet the farmers who run their farms in the heart of the national park. These have only been authorized to have this tourist activity of presenting their work since 2017. It’s quite interesting to discover the local plantations, pineapple, coffee, orange, avocado, mango, banana and you’ll be offered a taste of the famous local cocktail made from orange, honey, lemon, cane sugar and an artisanal rum. Once you’ve finished your aperitif, you’ll discover a superb panorama of the National Park valley worth its weight in gold.
Allow around 4 hours for horseback riding and 25 CUC/person. The price is higher from the mirador de los Jazmines, but the route is much more authentic and less touristy.
- Mirador de los Jazmines
If you want a beautiful souvenir of the region, I invite you to take a sunrise or sunset at the Mirador de los Jazmines, available free of charge. The easiest way is to get there early by car or cab. You arrive at an elevated viewpoint overlooking the Viñales valley, with a magical and unique 180-degree panorama. If your budget allows it, I advise you to stay at 3* Horizontes Los Jasmines hotel that I was able to visit and nestled right next to the viewpoint, rather convenient for those early morning wake-ups. Balconies overlook the valley. Not far away, you’ll also find the Balcon del Valle Viewpoint which is accessible for a completely different view. Go to the Restaurant Balcón del Valle Viewpoint for a coffee.
- Les grottes « Cueva Del Indio »
Pour les amoureux de spéléologie et surtout de formations rocheuses, vous pourrez aller visiter plusieurs grottes aux alentours de Viñales. Dans tous les cas, il vous faudra un moyen de locomotion pour vous y rendre. La plus intéressante est semble-t-il, la Cueva del Indio d’après les retours d’expérience de voyageurs que nous ayons croisé car nous n’avons pas eu le temps de la découvrir et ce n’était pas notre priorié. Pour 5 CUC/p, vous ferez une promenade en barque et vous observerez les formations rocheuses. Une balade pour se mettre au frais dans la moiteur cubaine mais qui ne semble pas être un immanquable pour autant car la grotte est réputée pour être touristique.
On n’a également voulu nous vendre la grotte Palenque de Los Cimarrones qui fait aussi bar et discothèque. Il y a un restaurant installé intérieur, ouvert uniquement pour le déjeuner avec une musique live afro-cubaine. Pour nous aucun intérêt majeur donc nous n’y sommes pas allés car cela semblait aussi touristique.
Enfin, vous pouvez découvrir la plus grande grotte de Cuba, la Grotte Santo Tomas, située à 20min en voiture de Viñales. Il faut compter pour 1h30 de visite guidée 15 CUC/p. Si vous n’avez jamais visité de grottes auparavant, celle-ci a un intérêt plus certain. La grotte de la Vaca est une grotte quant à elle gratuite, située non loin du centre ville dans la ferme Finca Raul Reyes. Ces deux grottes sont conseillées pour une petite randonnée à l’ombre.
- Faire un cours de cuisine
Depuis peu, les cubains ouvrent des cours de cuisine. Nous n’avons malheureusement pas eu le temps de le faire mais c’est bien sûr un moyen très sympa de découvrir la culture culinaire locale. Au menu sont proposés les plats suivants:
– La ropa Vieja, réalisée à base de viande de bœuf (la même que pour les bourguignons), de tomates, d’oignons et d’épices. Un vrai régal.
– Les galettes de Maïs. Peu vues dans les restaurant, c’est pourtant une valeur sur des plats typique de Cuba et très simple à réaliser.
– Les frites de patates douce, les tostones de bananes, les croquettes de poissons pourront également être enseignés et vous serez ravis de les refaire pour un apéro en mode tapas cubaine à la maison.
- Goûter au célèbre Barbecue cubain
Il ne faut pas quitter Viñales sans avoir testé le célèbre barbecue cubain à 12 CUC/ avec en entrée une soupe puis au choix viande ou poisson au barbecue + accompagnements les 2 riz (blanc et moro, riz aux haricots noirs ), des haricots rouges et des morceaux de citrouilles rôtis. Comptez pour les boissons pour 1,50 CUC. On a testé au retour de la balade à cheval, le restaurant Buenavista avec sa jolie vue sur la vallée et les vautours qui viennent vous rendre visite . Très bonne adresse que je vous recommande.
- Participez à la fête du village
Je ne sais pas si cette fête nommée Noche de Viñales n’a lieu qu’au mois d’août mais tous les samedis soir a lieu la fête du village et c’est un rassemblement à ne pas manquer. En plein cœur de Viñales, sur une des artère principales du centre ville fermées pour cet évènement, sont installés des tables, des chaises et manges debout sur la route. On y trouve également des stands de cuba libre, mojitos, daiquiris et autres boissons locales le tout dans une ambiance cubaine sur un son de salsa, bachata et merengue. C’est une super expérience pour danser avec les locaux et passer un très bon moment.
Practical information Viñales
As in most of Cuba, you’ll find all kinds of casas, ranging from 5 CUC a night to around 50 CUC a night. The price difference comes down to service, quality of welcome, breakfast, location, cleanliness of rooms… During my trip to Cuba, I selected some very pretty casas in Viñales that I’m keeping carefully for my customers who have booked a trip to Cuba with our agency.
Below are a few addresses of casas that have been recommended to me for their friendly, welcoming Cubans, cleanliness and generous cuisine:
You’ll find plenty of restaurants in the heart of the city with their ratings on tripadvisor. You’ll find that restaurants on perpendicular streets cost less than those on Viñales’ main street. By wandering around and on recommendation, we found the following restaurants:
- Los Narra located in a small garden: main course 12 CUC, dessert 1.5 CUC and drinks approx. 2 CUC
- restaurant Buenavista for Cuban barbecue
- If you’d like to meet an exceptional character full of kindness in Viñales, head for the restaurant Alberto Vitamina, away from the town center (Section Chile route de Puerto Esperanza (the road that takes you to the Indian cave). You’ll need a car to get there, but the welcome is truly extraordinary and the food renowned. You can visit his tobacco drying room, his tobacco plantation and his earthen oven where he cooks his pigs over a wood fire using the old-fashioned method. Enjoy delicious Cuban cuisine.
- In the center of Viñales is el Jardin del Arte Sano, hidden in a small patio. Perfect for dinner.
- Outside Viñales, we were also recommended the Restaurant the Carreta de San Vicente renowned for its generous portions and for its mutton ragout with red wine!
- El Paraiso Agroecological Farmwith a beautiful view of Viñales
- The restaurant Cubar et El Olivo is also well known for its location and apparently delicious food.
- Cocina del Medio (Salvador Cisneros) and La Berenjena.
- In the center of Viñales is el Jardin del Arte Sano, hidden in a small patio. Perfect for a drink
- Bar the 3 jacks for its cocktails and tapas (Salvador Cisneros)
- Mojito House (North Adela Azcuy Street)
- Cubar (#55 Salvador Cisneros)
- Lounge Bar
- Moreno’s Bar
- Horseback riding 25 CUC/p
- Cueva del Indio Caves 5 CUC/p
- Grotte Santo Tomas 15 CUC/p
| LES CAYES AUTOUR DE VIÑALES
Viñales’ other strong point is that it’s only a 1-hour drive from Cayo Jutias and Levisa. And the question on everyone’s mind is which islands to go to.
- Levisa Key
Well, we’re sure Cayo Levisa we’ve set our sights on. The big difference between the two Cayos is that one is open to Cubans and the other is not. And that’s why we chose Cayo Levisa. Let me explain, Cubans have two shortcomings: firstly, they only know how to listen to reggaeton when the sound is cranked up to the max, with no regard for the people around them, which isn’t very restful when you’re relaxing on an idyllic beach. Secondly, they have no education in the management of their waste, which they dump openly on the beach and even in the water. Suffice to say, it’s not the kind of landscape we like to spend our day in. So we chose an unspoilt location. The island of Cayo Levisa, a 30-minute boat ride from the coast, is a small paradise worth preserving.
Did you know? Cayo Levissa is an island off-limits to Cubans except for those who work there, simply because in Fidel Castro’s day, the island was the departure point for fleeing Cuba to the USA. We’ve heard that the island may soon open up to Cubans, so we’ll keep an eye on that!
White sand so fine it caresses your feet, translucent waters at 31 degrees, sunbathing, dried palm leaf umbrellas and small, well-appointed beachside gardens – that’s what awaits you at Cayo Levisa. As the Cubans would say, the waters of Cayo Levisa are the stuff of dreams. “Sopa“. For us, it will remain one of the most beautiful beaches in the country and a truly peaceful and relaxing day. You can visit by the day, or choose to spend a minimum of two days, with a one-night stay in the island’s only beautiful hotel Villa Cayo Levisa. It offers 3 types of accommodation juniors suite facing the sea, the tropical suite who are in the middle and at the back, further back the bungalows. From 150€ per night and it’s full all the time. It’s impossible to book on the spot, so get there early! Don’t forget your passport as you will be asked to do so when you collect your tickets from the ticket office at the port.
In the morning, around 11am, and in the afternoon around 4pm, Cubans come to sell you coco fraiches for 3 CUC. If you spend the day there, you can eat and drink in the island’s only restaurant. To give you an idea, a large bottle of water costs 3CUC. Try to get there before rush hour so you can enjoy the beach to yourself.
The sunbaths scattered free of charge all along the beach of this small island are quickly snapped up, but don’t panic, anyone can find one, as the beach is long and lined with canopy beds and deckchairs. If you really want to be alone in the world on this white-sand beach, once you’ve reached the main beach, turn right and walk along the sea for 20 minutes towards Punta Arena at the eastern tip of the island (follow the sign for this beach bar). The place is easily recognizable, with more driftwood and fewer people.
- Cayo Jutias
The beach of Jutias is also very beautiful from what I’ve been told, but the two big drawbacks are the state of the road to get there, which is really broken up, poorly maintained, winding, tiring and not at all pleasant, and the presence of mosquitoes, probably due to the abundance of these beautiful mangroves. As soon as the wind stops blowing, these beasts throw themselves at you. They can arrive by the hundreds, depending on the period. Most of the beach-goers are concentrated near the parking lot and the restaurant: you only have to walk 500m one way or the other to find yourself alone.
Practical information Viñales and the Cayos
From LA HAVANE
- Distance Viñales
From Havana by shared bus, allow a good two-hour drive and 20CUC/p
- Distance Pinar del Rio
From Havana, it’s a 3-hour drive.
From VIÑALES
- Distance Cayo Juitias
From Viñales, allow 1h30 to 2h by car on a fairly rough road, and 35 CUC/p by public bus
- Distance Cayo Levisa
From Viñales, allow 50 minutes to 1 hour’s drive to reach the port, then a 30-minute ferry ride each way and around 45 minutes on the return trip. Count 25 CUC/p round trip for the cost of the ferry only. Formulas are available in the center of Viñales at the “Infotur ” at 23 CUC/p for the ferry and a sandwich at lunchtime (without drinks) in the island’s only restaurant, or a 39 CUC/p package with shared bus + ferry + buffet lunch. Prices are virtually the same everywhere, give or take 2 CUC.
Ferry departure from Palma Rubia to Cayo Levisa à 10 am, 2 pm and 6 pm/ Back to Cayo Levisa in Palma Rubia at 9 a.m., 1 p.m. and 17h. Boat fare from hotel 35 CUC/p and 17.50 CUC/child.
Don’t be late as the boat leaves without you. If you arrive by car, you’ll have to pay the daily parking fee. Someone is waiting with a notebook.
J’espère que cet article vous aidera à prépare votre voyage à Viñales.
Sachez que Cuba, n’est pas une destination bon marché et qu’il vous faudra un petit budget pour visiter l’île. Si vous souhaitez un devis pour la destination, merci de m’envoyer votre demande à contact@mademoiselle-voyage.fr. Pour tous ceux qui veulent y aller en août, il faut vous y prendre à l’avance, on commence souvent les réservations pour nos clients à partir de janvier car cela nous permet d’avoir du choix en terme de casas et de trouver rapidement une voiture.
Nous vous invitons à lire également tous nos autres articles sur Cuba:
- La Havane: 9 choses à faire dans la capitale
- Baracoa, le secret le mieux gardé de Cuba
- Playa Larga, Playa Giron & et la Cienaga Zapata
- Le guide pratique pour tout savoir avant de partir à Cuba
- Que voir et que faire à Cienfuegos
- Trinidad la perle coloniale et ses cascades
- Santiago de Cuba, berceau de l’identité cubaine
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